Le Querce - Pistoia (Just west of Florence)

Accommodates 8 — 5 Bedrooms — 3 Baths
Swimming pool

As we've noted elsewhere, there are places in Tuscany whose very proximity to Florence has saved them from the pressures of mass tourism. Perhaps the overwhelming example of this phenomenon is Pistoia, truly one of the most delightful small cities in all of Italy, full of charm and first-class things to see. The Piazza del Duomo is stupendous, not to mention the little medieval square nearby, which hosts Pistoia's wonderful open-air market. And yet, the tourist presence is minimal. If you want central Tuscany but are afraid you'll spend your entire vacation with folks from Germany and North America, Pistoia with its excellent road and rail connections makes a wonderful base. You're about 20 miles from Florence, 25 from Lucca, 60 from Siena. It's really a fabulous location.

Our Villa Le Querce floats just above Pistoia, surrounded by vineyards and olive trees. When we visited on a Sunday morning -- granted, a traffic-free moment -- it was no more than 5 minutes' drive from Pistoia's centro storico. Upon exiting the car, you're drawn immediately to stop and enjoy the panoramic view across the villa's swimming pool out over the entire townscape of Pistoia, obviously including the campanile and dome of the cathedral as well as all of the city's many other churches. On a clear day, you can even distinguish Brunelleschi's dome in the distance. Simply beautiful.

Can you come here and not rent a car? No. You'll want a car for longer distances. But one thing you can do is drive just down the hill from the villa — 2-3 minutes' drive — park the car and take the bus into the center of Pistoia where you can hop a train into Florence, Prato, Lucca, or Viareggio. For other destinations like San Gimignano, Siena, Arezzo, and the vineyards and olive groves of the Tuscan countryside, you'll want your vehicle.

The important point is that you've got a country house without the trouble of being isolated in remote countryside and the end of winding dusty roads which so often discourage long excursions and make the return after a long day sightseeing so tiresome. At Le Querce, you've really the best of both worlds.

Le Querce, which dates from the 18th century, is divided into two wings: One is occupied by the charming, hospitable, yet totally discreet and unobtrusive owners, a cultivated English-speaking husband, wife, and young adult son, all eager to make your stay a pleasant one.

The guest wing, completely independent, with its own entrance and grounds, is spread over three floors. Furnishings throughout are practical, comfortable, and aesthetically pleasing, including many antiques and family heirlooms. The ground floor contains a living/dining room with big decorative fireplace; separate study; and fully-equipped kitchen and laundry room. Upstairs are three bedrooms: two twin and one matrimonial. And upstairs again, two bedrooms: one twin and one matrimonial, whose walls are covered with charming painted trompe l'oeil decorations. The bedrooms share three full baths among them. This arrangement is particularly suited to three couples traveling together, for an extended family, or for two families traveling together with children. Bedrooms are unpretentiously furnished, light and pleasant, with good beds. Exposed beams and rafters, terracotta and parquet floors, arched windows, and vaulted ceilings all contribute to the villa's historic ambience. If you bring your laptop and headset, there's an ADSL connection via ethernet cable (walls are too thick for wi-fi) which will allow you to check your email, surf the web, and make phone calls via Skype or Voip.

French doors from the living room lead out onto a magnificent terrace with that gorgeous view over Pistoia. There's a barbecue not far from the panoramic swimming pool, as well as lots of sunny and shady spots to lounge, read, chat, play cards, or whatever.

For a really special occasion, a local chef will come and prepare a truly gourmet meal.